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Pop Up Camper Roof Replacement Anaheim

Published Jun 12, 25
11 min read

Camper Trailer Repair Anaheim, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I didn't have the locking handles tightened down.) I really did not see anything awry, yet pulled back both awning simply to be risk-free. A lot of campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home the other day in the rainfall, so today I released the awnings to dry them out. That's when I found that the gutter had been retreated from the wall (and downspout was missing) on the right-hand man end of the front awning.

It shows up that concerning 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is glided right into has actually drawn away from the wall surface and twisted a little bit - Pop Up Camper Roof Replacement Anaheim. I'm thinking the repair service will entail changing that whole length of rainfall seamless gutter (10 feet?) and possibly utilizing larger scale screws to change those that were taken out

We've got busted braces on our camper awning. 2 months ago, we had a poor tire blow-out that created a bent axle, significant fixings, and so on, and we wonder if the braces cracked/broke throughout the bouncy trip before we recognized the axle was in difficulty. We have not had the awning out since it remained in the store to be fixed.

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The awning itself, spring device, and so on, is great. The rear bracket assembly is fine, however the front one is fractured near the bottom and completely appeared at the top, to ensure that the leading support arm no longer affixes to the camper. We remain in problem. I do not want/like to camp without it.

Does this sound reasonable? Also the actual support arms are intact. They are white steel (? light weight aluminum?) and the brackets are a much heavier gray steel - it's the grey bits that have cracked/broken. The actual arms are totally normal/functionalI'm simply intending to see to it we're not being absorbed out of our anxiety.

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The RV is a 2007, however we had rain damage in 2010 and the whole awning was brand brand-new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would certainly like recommendations as to exactly how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - perhaps also get us through the summertime - without having to put in a brand name brand-new awning!

If we need to go awning-less, we will, yet I prefer to find a fast and effective solution. Anybody? Please!.

Welcome to my Motor Home Remodelling Series!.?.!! I'm on action 5 of changing the roofing of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last action I eliminated the roofing trim molding from 3 sides of the roof. But in order to get rid of the 4th one, I need to get rid of the motor home awning as well.

In order to change the rubber roofing system and roofing system decking, I require to remove the awning. My motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base however can be removed to set on the ground. Initially I pulled these out. Pressing this lever releases the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll additionally notice just how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning needs to find off initially before the final actions of this post (exposing the front and back sides of the roofing system outdoor decking).

Below's a detail of exactly how the awning placing brackets are screwed right into the camper. I didn't actually have to do this step up until the awning was on the ground but I noticed this set screw below holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's another at the ideal end of the awning.) I went on and loosened it.

Once both screws are eliminated, just pull back on the brace. Loosening the large lag screws that hold the RV awning mounting brackets to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Eliminating the placing brace once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Keep in mind just how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that seals the spherical corner at the back of the roof.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning installing bracket on the. Eliminating the placing brace of the awning.

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To change the roof covering, this awning bar requires to be removed. Here's a take a look at the circular network at the end of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides into this track. Directs! If you're just replacing your awning and not repairing the whole roof covering like me, then you would not need to remove the awning rail.

Going down the legs a couple of notches to lower the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) quickly.

You might have to reduce the end with an energy blade if it is wrapped under. Simply tug it out!

As soon as the screws were out I began spying up the awning rail. Once I began to pry off the awning rail, the whole point all of a sudden broke off and rolled up into the awning like a window blind.

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Just understand it's coming! When the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be pried up. You can see the side of the rubber roof that was fastened under it. As soon as you start drawing the awning rail away it will instantly break complimentary and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This point is hefty so if you're working alone like me after that lower it the ground gradually by strolling the legs far from the camper on each side one at a time till you can lay it on the ground. After that I turned the legs back up and out of the way against the camper.

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Then I leaned the legs back versus the camper. When the awning was on the ground I eliminated the little collection screw at the right end of the awning, (I eliminated the one at the left end previously.) These screws maintain the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're removed the rail simply slides straight off the canvas by sliding the whole rail away.

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As soon as the two set screws were removed I might move the entire awning rail right off the awning. Another appearance at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last step prior to I can remove the old roof covering outdoor decking is to subject completions of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and rear of the camper.

I tore them out as finest I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded change had some rusty staples stifling. I pried them out as finest I could. The next point holding down the rv fiberglass house siding panels is the corner trim molding shown below. It has a plastic screw cover strip put, so again I just tore up the plastic insert and drew out sufficient so I could loosen some screw heads.

I may end up eliminating it later on if I need to replace the luan plywood below this fiberglass shift. To lift that, the corner molding have to be gotten rid of.

Then I could swing the trim mold and mildew off the side enough to raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel. Once I might swing that piece of edge molding off the side, I started to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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At that factor I switched over from a scraper to 6 inch wide taping blade. I loosened up the various other corner trim in the very same means, and bent it sidewards just enough so that I could lift up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I found a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be changing it. Which suggests I'll finish getting rid of those edge trim pieces all the method down. We'll obtain to that later on. I had a substantial quantity of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roofing deck.

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The side of the roof covering decking is exposed at the back of the camper! I have actually exposed the roof substrate at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to find the front side.

Once more, I tore that layer up too (there had not been much quieting yet adhesive at this moment) and after that I can yank out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued underneath it. Currently I can pull out the last bit of rubber roof covering from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I discovered there were no bolts holding the roofing plywood down. It was just glued. So I began meticulously peeling it up. I can see heaven styrofoam insulation below the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notice there are no bolts in any way holding down the roofing system plywood! It is totally glued.

Once I scuffed up some of the damaged little bits I obtained hold of a strong piece of plywood and started to draw. The entire point started to draw up cleanly in one piece without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal strengthened tape under that signs up with the assemble. I don't recognize just how specifically they handled to glue everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, but it was perfectly done. The pieces of roofing ply are collaborated at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I promptly realized the roof covering was losing strength and stiffness as I brought up the leading layer, so split it off prior to the initial seam. A close up of the steel framework in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Right here's an information of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw right into the roofing system.

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I located a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be changing it. Which indicates I'll finish eliminating those corner trim items all the way down. We'll get to that later on. I had a substantial quantity of water damage in the joint between the rounded corner and the roofing system deck.

It's just popping through the staples. Lastly the side of the roof decking is exposed at the rear of the camper! OK! So I've exposed the roofing substrate at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to find the leading edge. Same bargain once again. Get rid of some screws from the corner trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once more, I tore that layer up too (there had not been much quieting however adhesive at this moment) and afterwards I might pull out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued underneath it. Pop Up Camper Roof Replacement Anaheim. Currently I can pull out the last bit of rubber roof from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I observed there were no fasteners holding the roof plywood down. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation below the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notification there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing system plywood!

As soon as I scuffed up some of the damaged bits I got hold of a solid item of plywood and began to pull. The whole thing began to pull up cleanly in one item without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel strengthened tape under that joins the assemble. I do not recognize exactly how exactly they handled to glue whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the bottom, yet it was well done. The pieces of roofing ply are collaborated at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I swiftly realized the roofing was losing stamina and tightness as I brought up the top layer, so fractured it off right before the first joint. A close of the metal framing in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Below's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber supports where the antennas screw right into the roofing.

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