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Atwood Pop Up Camper Repair

Published Jun 08, 25
11 min read

Rv Camper Repair Near Me Atwood, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

A lot of campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home the other day in the rain, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out.

It shows up that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (gutter) that the awning is glided right into has pulled away from the wall and turned a little bit - Atwood Pop Up Camper Repair. I'm thinking the fixing will require changing that entire size of gutter (10 feet?) and probably making use of larger gauge screws to replace those that were pulled out

We've obtained damaged braces on our camper awning. Two months ago, we had a bad tire blow-out that created a curved axle, major repair services, and so on, and we question if the braces cracked/broke during the bouncy trip before we recognized the axle was in trouble. We haven't had the awning out because it remained in the shop to be fixed.

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The awning itself, spring device, etc, is fine. The back bracket assembly is great, however the front one is split near the bottom and completely appeared at the top, to make sure that the leading assistance arm no more affixes to the camper. We remain in difficulty. I don't want/like to camp without it.

Does this sound sensible? Even the actual support arms are undamaged. They are white metal (? light weight aluminum?) and the braces are a larger gray metal - it's the grey bits that have actually cracked/broken. The actual arms are totally normal/functionalI'm simply intending to ensure we're not being absorbed out of our despair.

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Are they that brand-specific and proprietary that if one item is broken it has to be totally changed? The recreational vehicle is a 2007, yet we had rain damage in 2010 and the whole awning was brand-new during that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would like suggestions as to just how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - perhaps even get us through the summer - without needing to place in a brand new awning! We're in an extremely severe bind because we have actually a trip intended in mid June that is not optional and can not be transformed or delayed.

If we need to go awning-less, we will, however I 'd instead locate a quick and reliable solution. Any individual? Please!.

Invite to my Motor Home Improvement Series!.?.!! I'm on action 5 of changing the roof of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last step I removed the roof trim molding from 3 sides of the roofing. In order to eliminate the 4th one, I require to eliminate the RV awning.

In order to change the rubber roofing and roofing system decking, I need to eliminate the awning. My Recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be removed to establish on the ground.

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You'll additionally observe how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning needs to come off first prior to the last steps of this blog post (exposing the front and back sides of the roof covering outdoor decking).

Below's a detail of how the awning installing brackets are screwed right into the camper. I didn't really have to do this step till the awning got on the ground however I saw this set screw right here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's one more at the best end of the awning.) I went on and loosened it.

Once both screws are removed, simply draw back on the brace. Loosening the large lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning placing braces to the camper (with a socket wrench) Eliminating the placing brace once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Note exactly how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that secures the rounded corner at the rear of the roofing system.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning placing brace on the right. Removing the mounting bracket of the awning. As soon as the placing brackets are separated, it's time to get rid of the awning rail. Remember, the awning rail is primarily similar to a routine piece of light weight aluminum roof covering edge trim molding except that at the lower side there is a circular track with a slot in it.

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To replace the roof covering, this awning bar requires to be gotten rid of. If you're simply changing your awning and not repairing the entire roofing system like me, then you wouldn't require to get rid of the awning rail.

Going down the legs a couple of notches to decrease the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily.

You may have to cut the end with an utility blade if it is wrapped under. Simply tug it out!

As soon as the screws were out I began spying up the awning rail. (There will be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber below.) HEADS UP! When I began to pry off the awning rail, the whole point unexpectedly broke off and rolled up right into the awning like a home window blind.

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Once the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be torn up. When you start drawing the awning rail away it will instantly snap cost-free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This point is hefty so if you're functioning alone like me after that reduce it the ground little bit by little by strolling the legs away from the camper on each side one by one until you can lay it on the ground. After that I turned the legs back up and off the beaten track against the camper.

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I leaned the legs back against the camper. As soon as the awning was on the ground I removed the little set screw at the right end of the awning, (I eliminated the one at the left end previously.) These screws keep the awning canvas from gliding in the rail. Once they're gotten rid of the rail just glides straight off the canvas by moving the entire rail to one side.

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When the 2 set screws were eliminated I might move the entire awning rail right off the awning. One more appearance at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of.

I tore them out as ideal I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded change had some rustic staples quieting. I tore them out as best I could. The following thing holding down the rv fiberglass house siding panels is the corner trim molding revealed below. It has a plastic screw cover strip put, so again I just tore up the plastic insert and took out sufficient so I could loosen some screw heads.

I may finish up eliminating it later on if I need to replace the luan plywood underneath this fiberglass transition. To raise that, the edge molding have to be eliminated.

I could turn the trim mold off the side enough to raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel. Once I can turn that piece of edge molding off the side, I started to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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At that point I switched over from a scraper to 6 inch broad taping blade. I loosened up the other corner trim in the same method, and bent it sideways simply sufficient so that I could raise up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I located a bunch of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be changing it. I had a substantial amount of water damages in the joint between the rounded edge and the roofing deck.

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It's simply popping via the staples. The side of the roof outdoor decking is revealed at the back of the camper! OK! So I have actually exposed the roof substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to locate the front edge. Very same deal again. Get rid of some screws from the corner trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Again, I tore that layer up also (there had not been much holding it down however adhesive at this moment) and after that I could yank out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued underneath it. Currently I can pull out the last little bit of rubber roofing from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I discovered there were no bolts holding the roof covering plywood down. It was simply glued. I began thoroughly peeling it up. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation under the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notice there are no bolts in any way holding down the roof covering plywood! It is totally glued.

When I scratched up some of the damaged little bits I obtained hold of a solid item of plywood and began to draw. The entire point began to pull up easily in one item without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal reinforced tape under that joins the assemble. I do not understand how specifically they handled to adhesive every little thing down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was nicely done. The pieces of roofing ply are signed up with together at the joints beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I promptly realized the roofing system was losing strength and stiffness as I brought up the top layer, so fractured it off right before the first seam. A close of the steel framework in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Right here's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof.

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I found a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. Which means I'll finish getting rid of those edge trim items all the method down. But we'll obtain to that later. I had a significant amount of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

The edge of the roofing outdoor decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I've subjected the roof covering substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to discover the front side.

Again, I tore that layer up as well (there wasn't much stifling however adhesive at this point) and afterwards I could pull out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued below it. Atwood Pop Up Camper Repair. Currently I can pull out the last bit of rubber roof covering from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I noticed there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation under the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roof. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roof covering plywood!

When I scuffed up some of the broken little bits I acquired a strong item of plywood and began to draw. The entire thing began to bring up cleanly unharmed without harming the foam board insulation in any way. Now I might see the steel framing underneath. After that the plywood began peeling up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a steel enhanced tape on the base that joins the assemble. I don't understand just how precisely they took care of to adhesive every little thing down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was nicely done. The pieces of roofing system ply are collaborated at the seams underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I quickly realized the roof covering was shedding toughness and rigidity as I pulled up the top layer, so fractured it off just prior to the very first seam. A close up of the steel framing in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Below's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the solid wood reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing system.

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