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Placentia Camper Repair Shop

Published May 28, 25
11 min read

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OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I really did not have the locking knobs tightened up down.) I didn't see anything wrong, but retracted both awning just to be secure. The majority of campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home yesterday in the rainfall, so today I released the awnings to dry them out. That's when I uncovered that the gutter had been pulled away from the wall (and downspout was missing out on) on the right-hand man end of the front awning.

It shows up that about 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (rainfall seamless gutter) that the awning is glided right into has retreated from the wall and twisted a little bit - Placentia Camper Repair Shop. I'm assuming the repair service will entail replacing that whole size of gutter (10 feet?) and probably making use of bigger scale screws to replace those that were taken out

We've obtained damaged braces on our camper awning. Two months ago, we had a bad tire blow-out that created a bent axle, major repair services, and so on, and we wonder if the brackets cracked/broke throughout the bouncy trip before we recognized the axle remained in difficulty. We have not had the awning out because it remained in the store to be fixed.

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The awning itself, spring device, etc, is great. The back brace assembly is great, but the front one is broken at the bottom and entirely appeared at the top, to ensure that the leading assistance arm no more fastens to the camper. We are in problem. I do not want/like to camp without it.

Does this audio reasonable? Even the real assistance arms are undamaged. They are white metal (? aluminum?) and the brackets are a heavier gray steel - it's the gray little bits that have actually cracked/broken. The real arms are totally normal/functionalI'm simply intending to ensure we're not being absorbed out of our anxiety.

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The Motor home is a 2007, however we had rainfall damage in 2010 and the entire awning was brand name brand-new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would certainly like recommendations as to just how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - maybe even obtain us via the summer season - without having to put in a brand brand-new awning!

If we have to go awning-less, we will, but I 'd rather find a fast and efficient remedy. Any individual? Please!.

!! I'm on action 5 of replacing the roofing of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to eliminate the 4th one, I need to eliminate the Recreational vehicle awning.

In order to replace the rubber roofing and roof covering outdoor decking, I require to get rid of the awning. My Recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base however can be eliminated to set on the ground.

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You'll likewise discover exactly how the bracket is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning needs to find off first before the final actions of this blog post (exposing the front and back edges of the roof outdoor decking).

Right here's a detail of how the awning placing brackets are screwed right into the camper. I didn't actually have to do this action up until the awning got on the ground yet I noticed this established screw below holding the awning canvas into the awning rail (there's an additional at the right end of the awning.) I went ahead and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are eliminated, just draw back on the brace. Loosening the large lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning placing brackets to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Removing the mounting brace once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Keep in mind how this end was hooked over the termination bar that secures the rounded edge at the back of the roof covering.

Both lag screws removed from the awning installing bracket on the. Removing the placing bracket of the awning. Once the placing braces are separated, it's time to eliminate the awning rail. Remember, the awning rail is primarily much like a regular piece of light weight aluminum roof covering edge trim molding other than that at the bottom side there is a round track with a slot in it.

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To change the roofing system, this awning bar needs to be removed. If you're simply replacing your awning and not repairing the whole roof like me, after that you wouldn't need to eliminate the awning rail.

Going down the legs a couple of notches to lower the entire awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) quickly. Now it's similar to getting rid of the side trim molding beyond of the camper. Pull out the vinyl insert that covers the screw heads (you may need to reduce completion with an utility blade if it is tucked under the rail) and then just pull it out.

You might have to reduce the end with an utility blade if it is wrapped under. Then simply yank it out! As soon as the vinyl screw cover insert was out I got rid of the screws with a cordless drill and the outlet head from my ratchet screwdriver set. This went rather promptly.

As soon as the screws were out I started spying up the awning rail. (There will be some butyl tape or putty sticking it to the rubber under.) DIRECTS! When I started to pry off the awning rail, the entire thing all of a sudden snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a home window blind.

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Just understand it's coming! Once the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be pried up. You can see the edge of the rubber roof covering that was secured under it. When you start pulling the awning rail away it will suddenly break totally free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This point is heavy so if you're functioning alone like me after that decrease it the ground bit by bit by strolling the legs away from the camper on each side one by one up until you can lay it on the ground. I flipped the legs back up and out of the means versus the camper.

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These screws keep the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're eliminated the rail just glides right off the canvas by gliding the whole rail to one side.

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When both established screws were eliminated I might glide the entire awning rail right off the awning. An additional look at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last action prior to I can get rid of the old roof decking is to expose the ends of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and rear of the camper.

The next point holding down the rv fiberglass exterior siding panels is the edge trim molding revealed here. It has a plastic screw cover strip inserted, so once more I simply pried up the vinyl insert and pulled out enough so I might unscrew some screw heads.

I might finish up eliminating it later if I need to replace the luan plywood underneath this fiberglass shift. The roof covering outdoor decking plywood prolongs under the fiberglass skin at the back of the camper. In order to change it, this fiberglass change need to be lifted. To lift that, the edge molding have to be eliminated.

Then I could swing the trim mold and mildew off the side sufficient to lift up the side of the fiberglass panel. Once I could turn that item of edge molding off the side, I began to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in location.

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I switched from a scraper to a rigid 6 large putty knife. This item broke out of the fiberglass panel when I was trying to pry it up. At that point I changed from a scraper to 6 inch wide taping knife. I loosened up the other edge trim in the same means, and curved it sideways just sufficient so that I might lift up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I found a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be replacing it. I had a substantial quantity of water damage in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roofing deck.

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The side of the roofing decking is exposed at the back of the camper! I have actually subjected the roofing substrate at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front side.

Again, I tore that layer up as well (there had not been much stifling but glue at this point) and after that I could pull out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued below it. Now I can take out the last little rubber roof covering from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I saw there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation underneath the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notification there are no bolts at all holding down the roof covering plywood!

Once I scuffed up some of the damaged bits I obtained hold of a solid item of plywood and started to draw. The whole thing began to pull up easily in one piece without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel strengthened tape under that joins the pieces with each other. I do not understand how specifically they took care of to adhesive every little thing down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, however it was perfectly done. The items of roof covering ply are joined with each other at the seams beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I rapidly recognized the roofing system was shedding strength and stiffness as I brought up the top layer, so broke it off right before the very first joint. A close up of the steel framework in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Right here's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw into the roofing system.

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I located a bunch of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. Which suggests I'll end removing those corner trim items all the way down. Yet we'll obtain to that later. I had a significant amount of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

It's just popping through the staples. The side of the roofing outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! OK! I have actually revealed the roof substratum at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to find the leading edge. Same offer again. Eliminate some screws from the edge trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I tore that layer up too (there wasn't much holding it down however adhesive now) and then I can pull out the remainder of the rubber roof that was glued below it. Placentia Camper Repair Shop. Now I can pull out the last little rubber roof covering from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I noticed there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation below the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notification there are no bolts at all holding down the roof plywood!

As soon as I scuffed up a few of the damaged little bits I obtained hold of a strong piece of plywood and began to draw. The entire thing started to bring up easily intact without harming the foam board insulation in all. Now I could see the steel framing under. However then the plywood began peeling off up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a metal reinforced tape under that signs up with the assemble. I don't recognize exactly how precisely they took care of to adhesive whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the bottom, but it was nicely done. The items of roof covering ply are collaborated at the seams below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I promptly recognized the roofing system was shedding stamina and rigidity as I brought up the top layer, so broke it off simply prior to the initial joint. A close up of the steel framing in the roofing: one inch wide, one and a half inches tall. Right here's a detail of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw into the roofing system.

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