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Santa Ana Camper Service Near Me

Published May 27, 25
11 min read

Camper Awning Repair Santa Ana, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

A lot of campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home yesterday in the rainfall, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out.

It appears that concerning 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (gutter) that the awning is moved right into has drawn away from the wall and turned a bit - Santa Ana Camper Service Near Me. I'm presuming the repair work will entail replacing that whole length of gutter (10 feet?) and possibly making use of bigger scale screws to change those that were drawn out

We have actually got busted braces on our camper awning. Two months earlier, we had a poor tire blow-out that created a bent axle, significant repairs, and so on, and we wonder if the brackets cracked/broke during the bouncy ride prior to we realized the axle was in trouble. We haven't had the awning out because it remained in the shop to be fixed.

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The awning itself, springtime device, and so on, is great. The back brace setting up is fine, yet the front one is fractured at the base and totally broken through at the top, so that the leading assistance arm no much longer fastens to the camper.

Does this audio affordable? Also the actual support arms are intact. They are white metal (? light weight aluminum?) and the braces are a heavier grey steel - it's the gray bits that have cracked/broken. The real arms are totally normal/functionalI'm just intending to make certain we're not being absorbed out of our anxiety.

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The Recreational vehicle is a 2007, however we had rain damage in 2010 and the whole awning was brand name brand-new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would such as guidance as to exactly how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - maybe even obtain us through the summer season - without having to put in a brand new awning!

If we need to go awning-less, we will, yet I prefer to locate a quick and efficient solution. Any individual? Please!.

Invite to my Motor Home Restoration Collection!.?.!! I get on action 5 of replacing the roofing of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last step I removed the roofing system trim molding from 3 sides of the roofing. In order to get rid of the fourth one, I require to remove the RV awning.

In order to change the rubber roofing system and roof covering decking, I require to remove the awning. My Recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be removed to set on the ground.

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You'll likewise observe exactly how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning requires to come off initially prior to the last actions of this post (subjecting the front and back edges of the roofing outdoor decking).

Here's an information of how the awning mounting braces are screwed right into the camper. I didn't actually have to do this action until the awning got on the ground yet I observed this established screw below holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's one more at the ideal end of the awning.) I went on and loosened it.

Once both screws are gotten rid of, simply pull back on the bracket. Unscrewing the large lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning mounting braces to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Eliminating the mounting brace once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Keep in mind exactly how this end was hooked over the termination bar that seals the spherical edge at the rear of the roof covering.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning mounting brace on the. Eliminating the mounting brace of the awning.

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To change the roof, this awning bar needs to be removed. If you're simply replacing your awning and not fixing the whole roofing system like me, after that you would not need to get rid of the awning rail.

Going down the legs a few notches to lower the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) quickly. Now it's much like removing the side trim molding beyond of the camper. Take out the vinyl insert that covers the screw heads (you might need to reduce the end with an energy blade if it is put under the rail) and after that just pull it out.

You may need to reduce the end with an energy blade if it is covered under. After that just tug it out! When the vinyl screw cover insert was out I eliminated the screws with a cordless drill and the socket head from my ratchet screwdriver collection. This went quite quickly.

When the screws were out I started spying up the awning rail. When I began to tear off the awning rail, the whole point unexpectedly broke off and rolled up right into the awning like a window blind.

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When the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be pried up. As soon as you start pulling the awning rail away it will unexpectedly break free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This thing is heavy so if you're functioning alone like me then lower it the ground little by little by strolling the legs away from the camper on each side one by one up until you can lay it on the ground. Then I turned the legs back up and off the beaten track versus the camper.

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These screws maintain the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're removed the rail simply slides right off the canvas by moving the whole rail to one side.

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As soon as the 2 set screws were eliminated I can move the entire awning rail straight off the awning. Review at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last action before I can remove the old roof decking is to subject completions of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and rear of the camper.

The following thing holding down the recreational vehicle fiberglass house siding panels is the corner trim molding revealed right here. It has a vinyl screw cover strip put, so once again I simply pried up the vinyl insert and pulled out enough so I can unscrew some screw heads.

Nonetheless I may wind up eliminating it later if I require to replace the luan plywood underneath this fiberglass transition. The roof outdoor decking plywood expands under the fiberglass skin at the back of the camper. In order to change it, this fiberglass change need to be raised. To lift that, the corner molding should be removed.

I could turn the trim mold and mildew off the side sufficient to raise up the side of the fiberglass panel. Once I can turn that piece of edge molding off the side, I began to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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I switched from a scrape to a stiff 6 vast putty blade. This piece chipped out of the fiberglass panel when I was trying to tear it up. At that point I switched over from a scrape to 6 inch wide taping blade. Then I loosened up the other corner trim in the very same means, and curved it sidewards just sufficient to make sure that I could lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. I had a considerable amount of water damages in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roofing deck.

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It's simply standing out via the staples. Finally the edge of the roofing system decking is revealed at the back of the camper! OK! So I've subjected the roofing system substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to discover the leading edge. Very same offer once more. Remove some screws from the edge trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Again, I tore that layer up also (there had not been much quieting however adhesive at this point) and afterwards I could pull out the rest of the rubber roofing that was glued below it. Currently I can take out the last little bit of rubber roofing from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I observed there were no fasteners holding the roof covering plywood down. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roof. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roofing plywood!

As soon as I scratched up some of the broken bits I got hold of a solid item of plywood and began to draw. The whole point started to draw up easily in one item without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal enhanced tape under that joins the items with each other. I do not recognize how precisely they took care of to glue everything down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, however it was well done. The pieces of roofing ply are signed up with together at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I rapidly understood the roof covering was shedding toughness and rigidity as I pulled up the top layer, so broke it off simply prior to the initial seam. A close up of the steel framing in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Here's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood supports where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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I found a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be replacing it. I had a substantial quantity of water damage in the joint between the rounded corner and the roofing deck.

The edge of the roof covering outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I have actually exposed the roofing substrate at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to find the front side.

Once more, I pried that layer up as well (there had not been much stifling but glue at this factor) and then I could tug out the rest of the rubber roofing that was glued beneath it. Santa Ana Camper Service Near Me. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roofing from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I noticed there were no fasteners holding the roofing plywood down. It was simply glued. So I began meticulously peeling it up. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notice there are no fasteners whatsoever holding down the roofing plywood! It is entirely glued.

When I scraped up some of the damaged little bits I acquired a solid piece of plywood and began to pull. The whole point started to draw up cleanly intact without damaging the foam board insulation in any way. Currently I could see the steel framing beneath. Yet after that the plywood began peeling up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a metal enhanced tape under that joins the pieces together. I don't recognize exactly how exactly they managed to glue whatever down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, however it was well done. The pieces of roof covering ply are collaborated at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I rapidly realized the roof covering was shedding stamina and stiffness as I brought up the leading layer, so cracked it off just prior to the first seam. A close up of the metal framework in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Below's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the solid wood supports where the antennas screw right into the roofing system.

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